Percy Stop #3 Le Mans and Paris, France

              

From Paris, with Love

From Paris, with Love

So of course I sent Percy to Paris.

 And tried not to be jealous.  For not only did he visit Paris, he actually started in the French countryside, at the cottage home of Laila and Terry, two American ex-pats.  (Well, Laila is actually Norwegian-American, and Terry is “North Carolina, Born and Read.”)

                “Being voluntary immigrants and living abroad has also given us an appreciated dual view on our American citizenship and the rights and privileges that carries,” Laila writes.  “It has also allowed us to have certified opinions on immigration, both here in France and also in the U.S..”

                Laila arrived in Paris in the 1990’s as a college student and was soon in love – with the city and with Terry, who proposed to her at the Eiffel Tower.  They were married in Paris in 2000, took jobs (he is an attorney, she is a project manager), and settled their with their Parson Russell Terrier Freya Sophie and their cat Josephine “Josie” Amora.

   A love of fresh air led their family to seek a home outside the city. 

 “One random search on the Internet revealed a small cottage-like farmhouse with accompanying barn for sale that had us at ‘bonjour,’” writes Laila.  “A hop, skip and very complicated jump later we were the proud owners of La Maison M-J, located south-west of Paris.  A fixer-upper in the country means our current adventure is learning the ropes of renovation, rural life in France, and a whole hell of a lot of new vocabulary!”

Percy’s adventure with La Familie M-J began at their country home.  Laila and Terry took Percy into the town of Le Mans– an ancient city first mentioned by Ptolemy in 47 BCE.  Le Mans (“Le Maine” in antiquity)  has been conquered by Romans and fought over by the English and French.  It is the birth place of Henry II Plantagent, king of England, and home to Cathédrale St-Julien, where he was baptized.

Starting in 1923 however, it has been best known as the home of the 24 Hours of Le Mans sports car race.
*  Please note all photo captions are written by Laila.
 

 

Percy knocks on the M-Js favorite Medieval door.  See how it suits him?  -- Look closely.

Percy knocks on the M-J's favorite Medieval door. See how it suits him? -- Look closely.

 

The view from the door...and this is a wide street! Our favourite area to dine in Le Mans, writes Laila
The view from the door…and this is a wide street! Our favourite area to dine in Le Mans
Touring the Sarthe countryside Percy gets up close & personal with the Chateau de Montmirail-15mins from our house, writes Laila

Touring the Sarthe countryside Percy gets up close & personal with the Chateau de Montmirail-15mins from our house.

Point of penguin infiltration!

Point of penguin infiltration!

And what visit to France would not complete without a little accordion music?

And what visit to France would not complete without a little accordion music?

Percy & his Percheron.

Percy & his Percheron.

Percy phones home!! He just wanted to tell the fam how much fun the cider festival & exploring the village of Anville was!! + the phone was free...who knew?

Percy phones home!! He just wanted to tell the fam how much fun the cider festival & exploring the village of Anville was!! + the phone was free...who knew?

Itty bitty Percy.....Giant entry door.

Itty bitty Percy.....Giant entry door.

Percy tries to climb the bell tower! The towers total stone construction, including the roof, shows its incredible age & presence!

Percy tries to climb the bell tower! The tower's total stone construction, including the roof, shows its incredible age & presence!

Just in case you couldnt find Percy -- heres where he was making his move!

Just in case you couldn't find Percy -- here's where he was making his move!

After touring Le Mans, La Familie M-J took their penguin guest back to the cottage, and introduced him to their love of the French countryside – a passion strongly influenced by their love of food and the natural world.

“What we love best about the countryside,” writes Laila, “is the discovery of all things at their basics.   Cheese made from a neighbour’s goats, seeing nature at her finest and remembering the feeling of discovery you had as a child.  Our 300 year- old farmhouse with all its quirks … the owl in our giant oak trees, the bats at night, the webs the spiders weave on every surface on Spider Party Night as they glisten in the morning dew … we have never felt so alive and happy to be so.”

As a special treat for Percy (and a super-special one for my readers) they took him to their neighbor’s dairy for a demonstration on the making of chèvre– goat cheese.

Percy jumps in for a quick photo op while the goats eat one of their favourite treats...cauliflower leaves! Note the Monsieur goat eyeing pretty Percy....run Percy run!! (just kidding)

Percy jumps in for a quick photo op while the goats eat one of their favourite treats...cauliflower leaves! Note the Monsieur goat eyeing pretty Percy....run Percy run!! (just kidding)

 

 

Percy gets up close and personal with cepes--lucky bird! These were picked in the forest by Mme who owns the goats & is incidentally the mother of our closest neighbour. And yes, they taste as delicious as they look!

Percy gets up close and personal with cepes--lucky bird! These were picked in the forest by Mme who owns the goats & is incidentally the mother of our closest neighbour. And yes, they taste as delicious as they look!

Percy learned all about how goat cheese is made! Here he sees the ash flavoured cheeses ageing...1Euro per cheese, any takers?

Percy learned all about how goat cheese is made! Here he sees the ash flavoured cheeses ageing...1Euro per cheese, any takers?

“Percy is in the drying room,” writes Laila.  “The cheese can be eaten at any time, the softness (gooey) or hardness (dryness) of the cheese is a personal preference thing). And the taste? Ooo la la la la.”
Percy looks up in awe at Nicolas the dairy farmer...what a cool job he has...and thanks for showing Percy how its done, French dairy style!

Percy looks up in awe at Nicolas the dairy farmer...what a cool job he has...and thanks for showing Percy how it's done, French dairy style!

And then of course, it was on to Paris. 

Arc de Triomphe.

Arc de Triomphe.

Percy risks it all to stand in the middle of the Champs Elysees and get the shot...what a daredevil penguin!

Percy risks it all to stand in the middle of the Champs Elysees and get 'the' shot...what a daredevil penguin!

Here Percy meets up with some fellow travellers....two Polish gents eager to be in his album.

Here Percy meets up with some fellow travellers....two Polish gents eager to be in his album.

Bonjour, Notre Dame!

Bonjour, Notre Dame!

And what would a visit to Paris be without a little culture? Here Percy follows the DaVinci code secret tour...never say that in front of a French culture connoisseur!

And what would a visit to Paris be without a little culture? Here Percy follows the DaVinci code secret tour...never say that in front of a French culture connoisseur!

Percy visits the Peugeot showroom...hes not really impressed with their actual cars, but the concept ones got some pizzazz!

Percy visits the Peugeot showroom...he's not really impressed with their actual cars, but the concept ones got some pizzazz!

At Suffren -- the best brasserie in Paris to get oysters.  Those are the biggest you can get...Fine de Claires #1 (smaller the number, bigger the oyster

At Suffren -- the best brasserie in Paris to get oysters. Those are the biggest you can get...Fine de Claires #1 (smaller the number, bigger the oyster

And here Percy arrives at the beautiful Eiffel Tower (where incidentally his host parents got engaged and thus have some freakish obsession with it.  As Percy wears Peace on his heart I could think of no better representation of his visit to Paris then a shot of him & the Peace monument.

And here Percy arrives at the beautiful Eiffel Tower (where incidentally his host parents got engaged and thus have some freakish obsession with it. As Percy wears Peace on his heart I could think of no better representation of his visit to Paris then a shot of him & the Peace monument.

 

 –

 

When I asked Laila what was the most challenging aspect of her life in France, she was circumspect.  Most of the challenges she and Terry have faced, she said, have taught them to appreciate each other and not to worry about the little things of life.  She likes that their health care and job security are covered by taxes and does not mind the loss of 52% of her income in exchange.  But she finds inequality is a way of life in France.

Percy in the dead center of all of France. All route measurements start from this exact point. “Point Zero des Routes de France”

Percy in the dead center of all of France. All route measurements start from this exact point. “Point Zero des Routes de France”

“The French like to preach their country’s motto ‘Liberté, égalité, fraternité’ (liberty, equality, fraternity) in all things public,” she writes,  “and yet it is so very far from the truth. If you are not of a certain class, with a certain parentage and schooling, you will not rule.”

“Their blatant patriarchal inequality drives us totally bananas,” she says.  “Being raised and educated in an anglo-minded manner makes it all the more difficult.  Thank god for the good, cheap wine!” she adds.

And is it true what they say about the French being rude?

“  The stereotype of the grumpy French should mostly be attributed to the Parisians,” Laila writes.  “They are a beast unto themselves-for the rest of the country has very friendly, helpful people…who after a while do welcome you and we are happy to call France home when thinking of them.”

To learn more about La Familie M-J, visit their website.  You can also follow Laila on Twitter, but I am warning you:  it will make you hungry.

My deepest gratitude to La Familie M-J for hosting my penguin, for giving us such gorgeous pictures, entertaining and interesting captions, and a close view of their corner of the world.

My last question of Laila was, “What do you want Percy to take from your part of the world into his journey?”

She replied, “A love of freakin’ food!!…and a love of a sense of adventure to explore the world and all the delicious things (food and not) it has to offer. We’re hoping P-bird spreads those penguin wings far and wide and takes home the little things people maybe don’t know about where he goes.”

Terry and Freya

Terry and Freya

And with that, Laila put our friend Percy back in his box, with his bag and his travel journal and his stack of envelopes  and shipped him … northward.

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